Finding the perfect lipstick shade sounds fun in theory, but in many cases it can be a stressful task that leaves us paralyzed by analysis. You have a myriad of shades to choose from, but finding one that complements your skin tone, undertones, and personal aesthetic is another matter entirely. Recently, the “lipstick color theory” has even become popular on TikTok, with creators of different skin tones recording themselves swiping on the same product with very different results. The good news is that understanding the science of color theory will help you choose the right shade and makeup combination, and lipstick is no exception.
What Is Lipstick Color Theory?
The search for the right lipstick color seems never-ending as it often looks very different from what our skin and lips look like in the packaging. Professional makeup artists Kira Stevens and Alexandra Loughton are familiar with lipstick color theory because they work with over 200 brides every year and you guessed it, they want to choose the perfect lipstick color for their wedding day. “The delicate balance of choosing the right lipstick color is not about luck, it’s about knowing your skin tone, your undertones, and how they relate to color theory,” Lawton explains.
If you need a brush up on color theory, you’ve come to the right place. “The lipstick color theory is similar to the color theory used in painting,” Stevens said. “Mixing the primary colors in different combinations – red, yellow and blue – will create every color you can imagine. The color of our skin works in the same way. We are all made up of different proportions of red, yellow, and blue. Blue (which we can call our undertone), brown and white (which can be called our skin tone). All of this adds up to create our unique, personal complexion.”
When choosing a lipstick color, it’s important to consider how the colors coordinate with your skin tone, lip color, and how they relate to the color wheel. “To understand lipstick color theory, we have to simply understand how colors work together in the well-known sandbox (or how they can’t get along),” Stevens explains.
Why Lipsticks Look Different for Different Skin Tones
Have you ever tried applying your favorite lipstick to someone else, but it looks completely different from what you’d expect from yourself?” “Lipstick will look different on different skin tones because the ‘base color’ we’re using is changing,” Lawton says. “Everyone’s skin tone draws complementary and contrasting styles from lipstick, as the color of lipstick is made from a unique blend in the color wheel. Depending on the lipstick, the lipstick will dance in different ways on our individual skin tones.”
In addition to the base color, the shade of skin tone can also affect the appearance of the lipstick color. “Even if two people have similar undertones, lipstick of the same color will look very different on fair skin and on darker skin,” says Stevens. “It can distinguish ‘I feel comfortable wearing this lipstick’ or ‘this is not it!'” Being aware of this is a good reminder not to indulge in a certain lipstick that doesn’t quite fit you – instead, look for similar shades that are more suitable for your skin tone and undertone.
How Undertones Can Change the Appearance of Lipstick
There are three main categories of skin tones: warm, cool, and neutral. To quickly decipher your undertone, look at the veins on the back of your wrist. If they are blue, they indicate cool tones, green textures indicate warm tones, and a mix of blue and green indicates neutral tones.
To understand how our undertones affect the look of lipstick, Lawton brings it back to the color wheel. “All colors, including those in our skin, are made from three primary colors, which we use to choose the right lipstick,” she says. “For example, if your skin has a cool tone (more blue tones), a cool fuchsia will look more harmonious than a warm orange coral color. This is because we are matching the lipstick undertone to our skin undertone, rather than opposing it.”
If two people with different skin tones have the same undertone, will the same lipstick work? “You can have two people with the same undertone (let’s say it’s blonde, i.e., warm), but if one is light-skinned and the other is dark-skinned, then the same lipstick may show different effects (or may not show at all!) depending on its color depth,” Lawton said.
How to Choose the Right Lipstick for Your Skin Tone
Need help finding the right lipstick color for your skin tone? Lawton and Stevens shared some of their favorite lipstick picks based on skin tone, as follows:
- Dark skin tones:”Don’t be afraid to choose bright colors for dark skin tones,” says Stevens. “Because lipstick will have a darker tone, it will have a more pronounced contrast and stand out. For warm or neutral skin tones, try orange-based reds for a warm glow. For cool tones, choose dark berry colors”. If you’re looking for an orange red lipstick, try the Therms Lipstick ($26) and the Mac Matte Lipstick in Diva ($23) for a dark berry lipstick.
- Medium skin tone:”If you have a medium skin tone and warm undertones, then a caramel nude or coral color will be stunning,” Lawton says. “For medium-neutral undertones, try to find a color with a more balanced tone. She recommends Clinique’s Pop Lip Color and Bare Pop Primer ($24).
- Fair skin:”If you’re fair-skinned and have a cool undertone, I always like soft roses or subtle fuchsia,” says Stevens. A good option is the Danessa Myricks Color Fix Latte ($18).
